Feb 12

Surviving Tokyo On the Cheap Part 1

by in Japan

This blog was inspired by my friend Nicole who will be traveling here during the time I am out to sea.

Japan wants tourists. The country may not want you to stay here longer than a month (98% of the population are native Japanese), but they would love for you to visit and spend some yen. The Japanese Tourism Board (JTB) is actually flying influential travel bloggers to the earthquake ravaged parts of the country so they can write about how great Japan is to visit. Without forcing you to visit an area devastated by natural disaster, I can tell you that Japan is a wonderful place to visit. What the JTB and to a lesser extent, the Japanese government, fail to realize is that Japan is too expensive of a place to visit.

Nearly 100% of my friends who recently have gone on round-the-world (RTW) trips or are currently on them have skipped Japan as part of their tours of Asia. When I ask them why, they all say the same thing, “Japan is too expensive. Cost to much to fly there.” I can do nothing but agree. I live here and if I want to fly out of the country, even to countries nearby like Thailand and Vietnam, I have to save an entire paycheck.

It costs over $1,000 USD to fly out of Tokyo to just about any where else in the world. A two-hour high speed round trip ticket from Yokohama to Kyoto will cost you about $250. Spending a day touring the sights of Tokyo by train would probably cost over $20. Simply getting in a taxi in Tokyo, you’ve already spent about $10 before the driver steps on the gas. Can I blame my friends for not traveling here when they can get more fun for their money in Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and even Singapore and Hong Kong?

I have a reality check for the JTB. Until you, the airlines, JR train company and every restaurant in Japan realize that your high prices aren’t in line with the rest of the world’s financial situation, the travelers will stay away. But, there is hope JTB. I may not be an influential enough blogger but I do live here and I know enough from living here to let others know how they can survive Japan without breaking the bank.

 

Surviving Tokyo On the Cheap Part 1

For Part One I will focus on one of my favorite travel things to do- eating. Worldwide, people love Japanese cuisine. If you’ve traveled to or lived in Japan, no doubt you miss the local foods. For the uninitiated, Japan isn’t just sushi, miso and ramen though. We have a lot of great local food choices here that I didn’t know existed until I moved here. Now, I can’t imagine not having yakiniku, yakitori, Coco’s curry and shabu shabu.

When you get here friends, you’ll notice that the Japanese seem to eat out a lot. There are a lot of cafes, bakeries and restaurants here and you’ll see many of them filled. Eating out is great, I enjoy it, but it can be very expensive. If you’re a budget traveler, here are my tips to cheap but good eats in Tokyo.

 

Enjoying izakaya with friends.

 

7-11, Lawsons

Japan has convenient stores and they are similar to your convenient stores in the stores. Our 7-11′s are a little like the ones back in the states except they don’t get robbed every weekend and the bathrooms are a lot cleaner here. Another difference is the type of food you can get here.

Budget travelers will enjoy the selection of fresh food options throughout the store. For between 100 and 500 yen, you can have freshly made fried chicken, fries or salad. You can also get rice balls filled with salmon, chicken, vegetables or other things. The rice balls are quite filling, especially if you need to eat on the run.

Other options they have are instant ramen noodles and these delicious packaged sandwiches and bread.

 

Beef/Chicken bowls

When I lived in Costa Mesa, Calif., there was a Yoshinoya chain on the corner of Harbor Blvd. and Adams Ave., near the Orange Coast College campus. I knew the name was Japanese, but I had no idea that it was a Japanese chain restaurant from Japan until I moved here and saw them.

Yoshinoya is one of a few establishments where you can get very inexpensive (typically 240 to 500 yen depending on bowl size) beef/chicken bowls. My favorite to go to is Sukiya. They have chicken bowls there and I get down with the teriyaki chicken bowl. You’ll find these bowl places all over town and many stay open late into the evening.

 

Teriyaki chicken bowl at Sukiya.

 

Sushi Go Round

Sushi is expensive in the states and in Japan if you want to order your sushi, it can become expensive too. One great option to avoid high prices and get some great sushi is to eat at sushi go round restaurants. These places serve the sushi on a conveyor belt and you simply grab the colored plates as they… you guessed it… go around. Each colored plate represents a certain price. As your done with your plates, you simply stack them on top of another. Expect to pay between 140 and 320 yen per plate depending on where you go and the type of sushi you eat.

 

Sushi-go-round in Yokohama.

 

Others

-in many alleys you will find people standing up next to smokey grills. They are eating yakitori- the Japanese version of satay. These sticks of grilled meat smell and taste incredible. Be fair warned, you may be eating a chicken heart and not realizing it unless you ask. These sticks of meat cost between 70 and 100 yen typically.

-Japanese curry is different than Indian, Thai and Jamaican curry. Coco’s curry house is a chain popular with foreigners and you can get a plate of curry here for less than 700 yen. They are very filling.

-The Japanese love bakeries and many of the bread making bakeries I’ve been to can rival Paris for the quality.

-Japan has some of the freshest, most filling fruit I’ve ever had. The tangerines and apples here are pleasing to the taste buds. Since you won’t find many traditional breakfast type places, I recommend that you go to a grocery store or fruit stand and pick up fresh vegetables for the week.

-Doner kabobs aren’t traditional Japanese food, but like in many other places, they have be come part of the international travel landscape. For about 500 yen, you can get a filling doner kebab at one of the many vendors throughout Tokyo.

 

Japanese style curry at Coco's curry house.

 

 

These are my tips, as well as the tips shared by some of my friends who’ve been here. I think you will find things worthwile. With the money you do save, I suggest you at least treat yourself out to one night of good Japanese dining in Tokyo. Happy travels!

*if you know any other ways to eat cheap in Tokyo, please post them here. Also, please support my blog by “liking” this post and sharing it on Twitter and Facebook. Thank you.

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  • http://debbzie.blogspot.com/ DebbZie

    Greetings from Bali :)
    I just found your blog and I can’t stop reading it!
    I do agree that traveling to Japan is expensive. This post is very handy coz I really love food.
    Thanks for sharing !

    • http://www.scenewithahart.com Fidel Hart

      Greeting from Tokyo, DebbZie! Thank you for commenting!
      I will have to ask you about Bali. I want to visit there.
      Have you been to Japan? I don’t know why it remains so expensive. Even street food is expensive.

      • http://debbzie.blogspot.com/ DebbZie

        I visited Japan in 2001, 2003 and 2005….long time ago. I’d really love to see the sapporo ice festival, hopefully next year *finger crossed* :)
        I’ve seen your post about it, I think it’s so beautiful.
        Have you been to Bali? it’s not really cheap here but definitely is cheaper than Japan though :p

        • http://www.scenewithahart.com Fidel Hart

          I’ve been to Jakarta, but not Bali.
          Sapporo is amazing. I had a great time at this year’s snow festival. Every one is in a festive mood and the food is so oishi! You should return to Japan.

  • http://thejungleprincess.com/ Abby

    I would love to see Japan someday! Thanks for the reminder that it can be done on a budget, although I’d have a hard time saying no to the delicious-looking restaurants!

    • http://www.scenewithahart.com Fidel Hart

      Well I am here for at least a year longer, so get yourself to Japan ASAP, Abby. I’m a much better guide in person than one online :-)

  • http://emilyinchile.com emilyinchile

    I love that doner kebabs got a mention – some things are just universal, right?

    • http://www.scenewithahart.com Fidel Hart

      They are very universal, Emily. I was set to eat a lot of them prior to going to Italy because Lonely Planet and Frommers guides said it was expensive to eat there. Well it was not, but I still stopped for a doner every once in a while when I was on the move.
      I love mine with chicken and chili sauce.

  • http://camelsandchocolate.com/ CamelsAndChocolate

    I want to come back and eat ALL THE FOOD IN JAPAN. Mmmmm, it’s all so good there.

    On a side note: Scott and I had a doner kebab while wandering around Shibuya!

    • http://www.scenewithahart.com Fidel Hart

      Hello Kristin! How’s Vail?
      One of the best places for doner kabob is in Harajuku, right beside Forever 21. They do a great job there.
      What were some of your favorite foods here? Did you try anything out of the ordinary like the octopus balls?

  • http://www.msdumfries.blogspot.com/ Kim Vannie

    cool, luv ur writing style. I hope JTB is hearing you loud and clear. For people with time maybe they can plan their trips around the times the seishun 18 ticket is effective, stay at capsule hotels, hostels or couchsurf, there is an active couchsurfing community here. I feel the pain whenever I travel from here. I searched high and low for a ticket to Istanbul this coming summer that was at least 1,000. I had to settle for the one with a stopover in Malaysia for 1,600. The strong yen made it 120,000. Yeah that is another turn off for visiting here now, the strong yen. Looking forward to the other parts.

    • http://www.scenewithahart.com Fidel Hart

      Where in Japan are you, Kim?
      Thank you for the compliment. I hope JTB is too. They need to talk to the airlines and look at getting better packages for tourists coming here. My friends tell me that travel for Japanese is relatively cheap because of the deals they get from companies like H.I.S. Well, they should let foreigners in on those deals.

      • http://www.msdumfries.blogspot.com/ Kim Vannie

        I was in Fukushima for 5 yrs, now in Gunma. The key to getting the deals is to speak Japanese. I have used a few they are open to all willing to pay. Contrary to what your friend says they aren’t always cheaper. Please remember that what is seen as cheap by Japanese maybe expensive to foreigners.

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  • Kateadams82

    I see you are doing well and keeping it cheap! Last time i wanted to have a asian adventure i cisited 10 countries and of course japan was among them . Now imagine to visit 10 countries witha low budget ? I had to do some ” money stretch magics” just like you lol. The main thing i got to save was with places to stay ; I arranged several house swaps in the places i found this option available, where i didn’t i just had to deal with hostels and places alike. The good thing is that you ca find really cheap places to eat , and of course the local currency helps a lot ! Have a great time , and hope to read more from you!

  • Patrick H

    Gosh…great blog on one of my favorite topics, life in Japan! Loved this article on eating affordable in Japan. Funny, when I visit, I often will go to the local convenience store and have some snack in my room. I miss the simple oishii onigiri from 7-11 or Family Mart. It’s those simple high quality things about Japan that I used to enjoy everyday and certainly MISS! Keep up the interesting postings!

    • http://www.scenewithahart.com Fidel Hart

      Welcome Patrick!
      The more I live here, the more I love it here. I wish it wasn’t so bloody expensive, but I feel very safe and free here.
      I love the rice balls also, Patrick. I just don’t know what is going to be inside of them when I eat them, ha ha. Guess that’s part of the fun for my tastebuds (which really do not like Japanese pickles).
      Thank you for commenting!

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